Small Batch Bistro

Fried Green Tomatoes a Summer Special

2011-08-28T19:20:00.000-07:00

“Are these ever going to turn red?” my daughter asked a few weeks ago while we watered tomato plants. I’ve been so proud of my TLC arresting the blossom end rot that ripening wasn’t an issue. My bar this summer was no sunken, black bottoms.

I fried the first of my own plants’ perfectly round, solid green tomatoes; it took practically two months to coax new growth to that stage, and I was so proud. I felt I had to cook them before something else, like worms or whatever, happened. In fact, I may not get but a few vine-ripened tomatoes because of my zealous frying.

We’ve eaten some delicious fried green tomato dishes; I’ve put them in BLT’s, layered them with goat cheese and proscuitto for dinner, and served them topped with shrimp and remoulade sauce. This version topped with Fresh Corn Relish is a personal favorite.

I keep a bottle of vegetable or peanut oil for frying. When the oil has cooled and settled after cooking, I pour it back into the bottle through a cheesecloth-lined large funnel. It’s ready to go for round two.

When you are frying a small amount of green tomato slices, they are not likely to get soggy before you eat them. But if you make them more than 10 minutes ahead, it is helpful to stand them upright on their edges; I prop them up in a rib grill rack, placed in a rimmed baking sheet. They can be reheated this way by placing the baking sheet in a preheated 250 degree F. oven, and they’ll stay crisp.

I’ll be caring for tomato plants a little differently next year to keep the dreaded fungus away. But I’m glad I didn’t bag and throw out the plants this summer as was recommended. At least we’ve gotten some great FGT dinners out of them.

Fried Green Tomatoes

3/4 cup self-rising cornmeal

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons garlic powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1/2 cup buttermilk

2 medium green tomatoes, ends trimmed, cut into 1/3-inch-thick slices (3 to 4 slices)

Vegetable oil for frying

Fresh Corn Relish

3 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled

Whisk together cornmeal, flour, garlic powder, salt, and pepper in a shallow dish. Whisk together egg and buttermilk in another shallow dish.

Heat 2 inches oil in a heavy, deep skillet or large saucepan over medium heat to 375 degrees F. Working with a few at a time, coat green tomatoes in cornmeal mixture, shaking off excess. Dip in buttermilk mixture and coat again with cornmeal mixture. Fry until golden brown and crisp on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes, turning once. Let drain on paper towels.

To serve, divide fried green tomato slices on plates and top with Fresh Corn Relish and crumbled bacon. Makes 2 servings.

Fresh Corn Relish

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 ear corn, husks and kernels removed from cob

1/4 cup finely diced red bell pepper or avocado

2 tablespoons finely diced onion

1 tablespoon minced fresh dill

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon Sriracha or hot sauce, optional

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Heat bacon drippings in a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add corn, and saute until just tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and stir in remaining ingredients.

Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes about 1 cup.

Coconut Oil Adds Flavor to Fish, Roasted Beans

2011-07-20T14:10:00.000-07:00

I am a recent coconut oil convert.

Two summers ago I was a skeptic. I attended a cooking class during which the chef/instructor zealously declared coconut oil to be a healthy fat. (She also uses lard with abandon.) I was downright irritated to hear her tout this saturated fat as important to a nutritious diet and claim we should use it freely.

I perched on my soapbox, knowing in my heart that all saturated fat is evil.

It turns out that we were both wrong to an extent. Scientists and nutritionists now find that coconut fat is fine, in moderation. While there is no scientific data that support claims of coconut being a health food, there is proof that lauric acid, the main fatty acid in coconut oil, behaves differently from other saturated fats. And, while lauric acid does raise levels of HDL and LDL, it does not seem to negatively affect their overall ratio. Federal Dietary Guidelines for Americans recommend that no more than 10 percent of total dietary calories per day come from saturated fats. Judicious use of coconut oil can fit into a healthy diet, after all.

So when the local farmer, from whom I bought vegetables this week, told me I needed to roast his beans in coconut oil, I couldn’t wait to get home and try it. The oil adds wonderful slightly nutty and vanilla flavor, and its clean sweetness enhances the caramel flavor of roasted vegetables. When the fish in this recipe is sautéed in coconut oil, there is a mild coconut flavor that compliments the Thai seasonings.

Coconut oil is sold in jars with oils or in organic sections of most grocery stores, and is solid at room temperature.

The bottom line is that when a little extra coconut taste is what you are after, by all means go for pan-frying, sautéing, roasting, and baking with coconut oil. It now resides in my pantry beside the extra-virgin olive oils, and I consider the flavor that fits the dish when I choose between them.

Coconut Curry Fish and Roasted Beans

1/3 to 1/2 pound thin green beans, ends trimmed

2 tablespoons coconut oil, divided

2 tablespoons coconut milk

1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons green curry paste

1 teaspoon grated ginger

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup organic unsweetened grated coconut

2 (4- to 5-ounce) white-flesh fish fillets, such as halibut, cod, or tilapia

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Toss green beans with 1/2 tablespoon coconut oil; spread in a single layer in a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until just tender and lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Keep warm.

Meanwhile, combine coconut milk, soy sauce, green curry paste, lime juice, and sugar in a bowl. Stir and set aside.

Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1/2 tablespoon of the remaining coconut oil, and swirl to melt and coat skillet. Add coconut, and stir-fry until lightly toasted. Remove from skillet, and set aside.

Pat fish dry with paper towels; season lightly with salt.. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon coconut oil in skillet over medium-high heat, swirling to coat skillet. Add fish fillets; cover and cook 2 minutes. Uncover and turn fish fillets, drizzle with coconut milk mixture. Cover and cook until fish flakes when gently flaked with a fork, about 1 to 2 minutes (roughly 4 to 5 minutes total cooking time per inch of thickness).

To serve, toss beans with half of toasted coconut. Arrange fish and beans on serving plates; sprinkle fish with remaining toasted coconut and cilantro. Makes 2 servings.

Orange and Herbs are Zingy Seasoning Combo for Grilled Chicken Kebabs and Beets

2011-07-20T14:08:00.000-07:00

You will know who you are as you read this, but a close friend has forever taken issue with me about eating enough fruit. Her refrigerator is packed with berries, oranges, and apples, and she keeps a basket of peaches and bananas on her counter. Desserts and salads always contain fruit. When I go to dinner over there, she and her sister take great pleasure in cutting up a giant fruit salad.

I say I feel a little gypped without lettuce. She claims I don’t eat enough fruit.

My refrigerator, on the other hand, is loaded with vegetables. While I eat a banana a day for potassium and berries in smoothies, I reach for cucumbers and tomatoes, sprinkled with sea salt, for a treat. My salads are packed with cut up veggies, accompanied by some token romaine.

Well, I’ve changed my ways somewhat. This summer I’m grilling cherries and peaches to go with meats, serving them mixed with herbs and grilled sweet onions. And I’m addicted to the zingy combination of orange and herb marinades and bastes for poultry, meats, fish, and vegetables.

For concentrated orange flavor, I cook down fresh or unsweetened juice until it is syrupy. This takes only about 10 minutes, resulting in a sweet-tart citrus reduction. When you combine that with honey and herbs, such as sage, tarragon, mint, oregano, basil, thyme, or lavender, the flavor is divinely fresh-tasting.

(Grilled oranges are wonderful, too; peel them and slice them horizontally, then grill the slices until marked.)

This marinade makes enough for marinating the chicken and drizzling on the kebabs and fresh beets.

See there, friend, I’m making headway.

Herbed Honey Orange Chicken Kebabs

3/4 cup unsweetened orange juice

3/4 pound skinless, boneless chicken breast halves

2 cloves garlic, crushed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons honey

2 teaspoons freshly grated orange zest

2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs: thyme, marjoram, sage, oregano

1/4 teaspoon coarse salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Pour orange juice into a small saucepan; bring to a boil over medium heat. Boil, uncovered, until juice reduces to 3 tablespoons, 10 to 15 minutes; raising and lowering heat as necessary to keep it softly boiling but not boiling over. Pour into a medium bowl and let cool completely.

Lightly pound chicken breast halves to even thicknesses between pieces of plastic wrap. Cut lengthwise into 1-inch-wide strips.

Add garlic, olive oil, honey, orange rind, herbs, and salt and pepper to orange juice reduction. Measure out and reserve 2 tablespoons for beets. Add chicken to remaining marinade in bowl and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours.

Prepare grill. Thread chicken strips on skewers; place on oiled grill rack. Grill, covered, 3 to 4 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Makes 2 servings.

Grilled Beets

The hot fire of the grill brings out the earthy sweetness of beets.

4 medium beets

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

Reserved 2 tablespoons orange-honey mixture

Cut off beet greens to within 1 inch from bulbs. Scrub beet thoroughly. Place in a saucepan of boiling water; boil 15 minutes or until just tender when pierced with tip of a sharp knife. Drain and cover with cold water. When beets are cool, slip peels off.

Preheat grill for medium-hot.

Cut beets into 1/2-inch slices. Toss with olive oil, and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Place on oiled grill rack; cover and grill until well marked and tender on both sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer to serving plates and drizzle with reserved orange honey mixture.

Bourbon Marinade Jazzes Grilled Shrimp

2011-07-20T14:06:00.000-07:00

Would you like to receive an email that a company is sending you a new product to try? It’ll be shipped overnight and all you have to do is test it. If you like it, please review it so others will benefit, too.

That is definitely one of the perks of my job. And this week I tasted a product worthy of a shout out.

Woodford Reserve Bourbon has released Sorghum Vinaigrette Dressing; it is a smooth blend of bourbon, Kentucky sorghum (similar to molasses), cider vinegar, oil, and spices.

I went through that bottle in about 3 days. I tossed a salad of fresh market lettuce, avocado, and blue cheese, and marinated shrimp for the grill one night and flank steak the next. To go with the steak, I brushed the dressing on peach halves as they grilled.

There is another bottle in my future. The dressing can be ordered by calling the Woodford Reserve gift shop at 859-879-1940, or by visiting the distillery in Versailles, KY.

It is worth the call for a shipment. But, in the meantime, here is a recipe for grilled shrimp that uses the elements of the dressing in a marinade.

Bourbon Molasses Glazed Shrimp

1 pound large shrimp

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons bourbon

1 1/2 tablespoon unsulfured molasses

2 teaspoons cider vinegar

2 teaspoons hot sauce

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Peel and devein shrimp, keeping tails intact. Place in a heavy plastic bag.

Mix olive oil, bourbon, molasses, cider vinegar, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl; add shrimp and toss to coat. Refrigerate 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

Prepare grill. Thread shrimp on skewers; grill until shrimp are opaque and marked, turning once, about 4 minutes. Makes 2 servings.

Potato Tortes

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 pound yellow potatoes, such as Yukon Gold (about 2 medium)

3 tablespoons (packed) fresh breadcrumbs

3 tablespoons refrigerated finely grated Parmesan cheese

1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme

1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest

1 clove garlic, finely minced

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
Line inside of 2 (10-ounce) ramekins or custard cups with heavy-duty aluminum foil, allowing edges to extend over sides. Brush the foil on bottoms and sides of each ramekin with 1/2 teaspoon olive oil. Place on a baking sheet for easier handling.
Peel potatoes and slice as thinly as possible, about 1/16 inch thick, placing them in a bowl of cold water to prevent browning.
Place breadcrumbs, cheese, thyme, lemon zest, and garlic in a bowl; mix well.
Without draining potatoes, use your hands to lift about one-fourth of potatoes out of water and arrange in an even layer in one of ramekins. Repeat procedure with another one-fourth of potatoes and ramekin. Drizzle each with 1/2 teaspoon olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Spoon 2 tablespoons breadcrumb mixture on top of each potato layer. Repeat potato, olive oil, and salt and pepper layer; reserve remaining breadcrumbs.
Press layers down; fold over ends of foil to encase potatoes and seal well so potatoes will steam. Bake 30 minutes. Uncover and sprinkle reserved breadcrumb mixture on tops; bake, uncovered, until topping is browned and potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
Let stand 10 minutes. Use foil edges to lift potatoes out of ramekins; transfer molded potato slices to serving plates with a flat spatula. Makes 2 servings.

Sweet and Smoky Grilled Salmon with Farmer’s Market Squash

2011-06-21T19:49:00.000-07:00

Sweet and Smoky Grilled Salmon with Farmer’s Market Squash

Lack of a colorful plate of nutritious food for dinner made me homesick.

I worked out of town last week, and had neither the time nor inclination to cook. Mostly I wanted to curl up in bed when the day was a wrap. At home, I had been in the habit of stocking the fridge with market produce so there would be inspiring options for dinner. Away, I relied on yogurt and berries and whatever we ordered for lunch to see me through. I couldn’t fathom eating fast food just because I was hurried and hungry.

Getting into the farmer’s market habit tends to make you picky about what goes on your plate. I’m spoiled; we go to one on Saturday and another on Wednesday. That way, there is fresh food at both ends of the week. And I don’t mind saying that I feel healthier than ever.

Coming home, I was in market frenzy. No sleeping late on Saturday; I had to get there. This week’s bounty of yellow squash, fresh herbs, and a tub of fresh chevre inspired the following recipe. I also took away fennel, sweet onion, local sausage and a couple of pints of cherries, which I intend to grill for a condiment to go with the sausage. Stay tuned for the next farmer’s market adventure.

Grilled Yellow Squash Roulades

2 large yellow squash

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

Local chevre

Parsley Mint Pistachio Pesto (recipe follows)

Preheat grill. Trim each squash; cut into 1/4-inch-thick lengthwise slices. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill squash slices until lightly marked and tender, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a plate.

While squash is warm, spoon a dollop of goat cheese and pesto on one end of each slice and roll up slices loosely. Makes 2 servings.

Pistachio Parsley Mint Pesto:

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint

2 tablespoons finely chopped roasted shelled pistachios

1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 teaspoon grated lemon rind

1 small clove garlic, minced

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

Place first 7 ingredients in a small bowl and mix well. Season to taste the salt and pepper. Makes about 1/2 cup.

Brown Sugar Grilled Salmon

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon smoked or sweet paprika

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme

1 teaspoon coarse salt

2 (5- to 6-ounce) salmon filets (1 to 1 1/4 inches thick)

Mix brown sugar, paprika, thyme, and salt; rub on all but skin sides of salmon. Let stand 15 minutes.

Preheat grill. Place salmon, skin sides up, on oiled grill rack. Cover and grill 2 minutes. Turn salmon and grill to desired doneness, about 4 minutes for slightly pink in center. Makes 2 servings.

Boubon, Blue Cheese Make Burgers Memorable

2011-06-04T21:22:00.000-07:00

The fat, juicy burger was kismet.

Last Saturday, my husband and I did a nine-mile hike with steep climbs and stunning views of the Western NC mountains. We stopped for a sandwich of sprouts, avocado, and provolone on a huge white quartz outcrop called Shining Rock, shimmying up its face to reach the picnic spot. The entire wilderness area was breathtaking.

Maybe it was the vegetarian sandwich, or possibly the strenuous exercise, but I spent the last half-mile thinking about sinking my teeth into some meat.

We stopped at Fresh Market for supper fixings, to find employees grilling burgers outside for a summer promotion. Greeting a friend in the checkout line as I passed through the front of the store, a succulent burger on the cover of Food&Wine caught my attention. I now had my mouth set on a burger.

Armed with beef and magazine, I concocted this version. Neither of us could wait long enough for coals to turn ashen, so I cooked them on a griddle and we ate by 5. In bed by dark. Needless to say, we missed Lady Gaga on SNL. Too bad.

Bacon, Blue Cheese, and Bourbon Burgers

A splash of bourbon adds a little smoky flavor to the beef.

10 to 12 ounces ground beef chuck

2 tablespoons bourbon

2 teaspoons soy sauce

2 strips applewood smoked bacon

1/4 small red onion, vertically sliced

Freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese

2 (4-inch) soft buns or rolls, split

Condiments: Dijon mustard, mayonnaise, bread and butter pickle slices

Lightly mix ground beef, bourbon, and soy sauce until well distributed. Form into 3-inch wide patties. (Don’t overwork the meat to keep the burgers tender and juicy.)

Cook bacon on a griddle over medium-high heat until crisp. Drain on paper towels; pour off excess drippings, but keep a thin coating on the griddle. Place beef patties on griddle; cook 30 seconds, then flatten them lightly to 4-inch-wide patties using a flat spatula. Season with pepper; cook 2 minutes. Press onions into burgers; carefully flip burgers so that onions are on the bottom. Cook 2 minutes; sprinkle with cheese. Cover with a domed saucepan lid and cook until cheese melts and burgers are cooked to desired doneness, about 1 minute for medium-rare.

Serve in buns with desired condiments, topped with bacon. Makes 2 servings.

2011-06-04T17:37:00.000-07:00

Kids Cook and All Vegetable Meal

Radish Salsa

Are kids intrigued with cooking when they are hands-on and accountable for how the garden grows? What makes a child want to take over in the kitchen?

Last night, a friend’s daughter proudly emailed that she had cooked an entire vegetarian meal for her grandparents. Though her mom did some of the chopping, as it got closer to serving time, dinner was on Anne Elise.

AER, as we refer to her, is in fourth grade -- as is my daughter -- but they go to different magnet schools. Anne Elise’s school has a large community garden that the elementary students cultivate. Eleni’s school has a different focus and, therefore, no garden.

Field Peas with Kale and Sweet Potatoes

While my daughter likes to help with dinner and bakes from my Small-Batch Baking books all by herself, I’ve yet to see Eleni give me the grocery list for a meal she cooks solo.

She goes with me to farmers markets and the grocery store to purchase dinner components, but I am still the beginning and ending of her food wheel. I buy it, I plan it, I cook it. Even though she helps me put tomato plants and herbs in the ground and water them occasionally, I am the one tending the harvest and accountable for her food.

There is a hands-on, pick-it yourself element to growing your own that I believe gives kids the desire and confidence to work with their food. They planted it, they nourished it, they reaped it, and they need to see it through to the plate.

It’s early enough this year for me to get with the program. We don’t have the garden space at home for a big variety of vegetables and fruits, but we have plans to work on a farm during the summer. One-third of the land around Asheville is farmland. I have plenty of opportunity to teach Eleni about farm-to-table and encourage her to prepare her own fresh, healthy food.

Dickson Elementary gives out healthy vegetable recipes to children so they know how to cook the produce. Along with the Radish Salsa appetizer and entrée of Peas with Kale and Sweet Potatoes, Anne Elise served her family a Butter Lettuce and Spinach Salad with Grapefruit and Avocado. Go girl!

Radish Salsa

Adapted from Martha Stewart

1 firm, ripe Haas avocado

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

5 to 6 red radishes, thinly sliced

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon chopped pickled jalapeno

1 teaspoon olive oil

1/4 teaspoon each sea salt and sugar

Peel and dice avocado; toss with lime juice in a medium bowl. Stir in remaining ingredients. Serve with chips. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Field Peas with Kale and Sweet Potatoes

Adapted from The Moosewood Collective

1 cup cubed, peeled sweet potato

3/4 cup chopped onion

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/2 pound kale, tough stems trimmed and finely chopped (2 to 2 1/2 packed cups)

1 1/2 cups cooked fresh or frozen field peas, green pigeon peas, of butter peas

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cider vinegar and hot sauce to taste, optional

Crumbled goat cheese and chopped toasted walnuts, optional

Bring about 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add sweet potato, and boil until just tender, about 6 minutes. Drain, reserving 2 tablespoons cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, sauté onion in oil in a large skillet over medium heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Add kale and saute until leaves are bright green but wilted, about 2 minutes. Add reserved liquid, peas, and sweet potato to skillet; cover and steam until hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat; season with salt, pepper, and vinegar and hot sauce, if using. Serve sprinkled with goat cheese and walnuts if desired. Makes 2 servings.

from the chocolatenerd

2011-03-22T21:50:00.000-07:00

Sample Size

There may be times when you find yourself weighing your options: the chocolate cake? or that killer dress? The answer isn't always so simple especially for a chocolate lover. Author Debby Maugans has our backs! Her sample sized desserts are just enough to indulge without creating the bulge and most recipes call for just a tiny bit of ingredients like one egg, so they're easy to whip up in a pinch. I loved her first book, I thought that baking out of tin cans was a brilliant way to recycle while creating adorable little portion aware cakes. Needless to say, I was over zealous when I learned of the chocolate lovers release! Pick up a copy and shred those spanks!

http://www.chocolatenerd.blogspot.com/